By Andrew J. Linn
Friday, 27 March 2026, 12:06
The death of Michel Rolland last week marks the passing of the most famous of a curious modern breed: the ‘flying winemakers.’ He was not tied to a single producer, but advised more than 150 wineries in 20 countries, shuttling between hemispheres to catch successive harvests.
The flying winemaker explained
Flying winemakers are peripatetic consultants who act as high-level problem-solvers for wineries. Once contracted, they arrive on site to assess wines, inspect vineyards and cellars, and prescribe policy — advising when to harvest, how long to macerate, how much new oak to use and how to blend. Rolland’s particular skill was in the final act of blending; as one colleague put it, “the last five per cent makes the difference between the good and the great.” In the 1990s and 2000s he helped popularise rich, ripe, polished ‘international styles’ that found favour with critics and consumers alike.
A global consulting empire
Top consultants command substantial fees for multiple visits per year and may advise dozens of bodegas simultaneously, often supplementing income with equity stakes, joint ventures and their own labels. Rolland built a global consulting business alongside his family estates, and for ambitious wineries in regions such as Argentina, Napa and Spain hiring him brought not only technical guidance but also reputation. Even the notorious Robert Parker was impressed by his work.
Wine of the week
- Finca Enguera Rosado 2020 — Pleasant little wine from a family bodega in the Valencia region, tending to throw a small sediment even when young. Excellent all-rounder. Needs some searching out but worth the effort. Around ten euros.
Rolland’s career drew attention to a little-understood profession that has had an outsized influence on the taste of a generation. His work as a consultant and communicator of style made him a defining figure among modern winemakers.
Image Referance: https://www.surinenglish.com/opinion/andrew-j-linn-flying-winemakers-20260327120620-nt.html